29 July 2014

Chenal de l'Aber Wrac'h

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Vive La Difference!!

Of course I slept through my watch. John didn't wake me up at 3 am as planed. Thank you. By the time I woke up--late by sailing standards--at about 8 am, I had had a lot of dreams. Blame it on the jet lag, on the sailing motion, or even on the wine. Who knows?

Captain Luke was on watch from 10 pm to 1 am. I woke during the night. Too groggy to get out of my bunk, I lay there wondering if he had fallen asleep and the boat was sailing by herself. I was happy to hear Luke walking about, and waking Derek and David for the next watch. Phfew! Soon enough, I again awoke with the strange feeling that now John was asleep and we were sailing really fast, alone through the dark, in the path of a tanker. But soon the sun was coming up and another watch was completed. Joanna took the final watch from 5 am to breakfast.

Because of the wooden construction of the boat, it is always quietly creaking and squeaking. Chains on deck are chinking, blocks are tapping, lines are stretching, and sails are swooshing. These noises in the night are comforting and give a wooden boat its character.

During the night the boat sailed at what felt like 45 degrees (more like 10 degrees -- Ed.). For once I was really wedged in my bunk. The boat was heeled so much that I couldn't get out of bed even if I wanted to. It's really a nice feeling, to be stuck in bed with no way to get out :-)

Land Ho! (Helena is still sleeping)

Threading through the rocks guarding l'Aber Wrac'h
Once I was able to get out of my bunk, I joined the rest of the crew for Irish bacon sandwiches. As we entered the mouth of the river Wrac'h, we approached at least 100 tiny boats. Sailing schools are very popular in France. Kids were on catamarans, windsurfers, wooden boats, all with brightly colored sails. So pretty. I was a bit nervous when we were sailing through them, but the captain did a great job and we moored in the chanel of Aber Wrac'h without a hitch.

After a quick dingy ride, John, Dave, Mark and I were left ashore. It was lunch time. We were looking forward to our first meal off the boat. We landed in the little hamlet of Poulloc.

Which way to explore?

Two roads diverged in a wood, and we--
we took the one most romantic,
and that has made all the difference.
John has a soft spot for French cuisine, so all he wants to do during this trip is to have real French crepes and salted caramels --- originated in Brittany. After exploring for a couple hours, we realized that everything -- every bar, restaurant, cafe, store and commercial buildings -- was closed between 2 and 4 pm. Oh no! No crepes, no caramels!

We had more time to walk and explore the surroundings. Up the hill to visit the little town of Landeda, down hill back to Aber Wrac'h and finally restaurants started to open, just when the rain started.

View from the top of the hill, looking back across the Channel

Another view of the busy river
We were a bit wet, but found a nice mom and pop creperie and had homey crepes served with tomato, ham, cheese and onions. The caramels will have to wait.

Crepes for sailors -- only in France

Flowers, everywhere!
Back on Agnes, we ate a delicious beef stew, enjoyed some wine and coffee, and retired after a great day.

Tomorrow early in the morning we are sailing to Ile de Ouessant, better known in English as the island of Ushant. Part of our next leg, island hoping.

No watches, no sailing tonight.

Next Episode: Ushant


  1. What a fun trip. It sounds like you really enjoyed your voyage.

  2. Bienvenue en France....
    I've sailed all around Bretagne ( Britanny for you).
    And for your next breakfast : café + croissant !


I'd love to hear from you. Please comment!